Build Your Own Web Server At Free

When you browse across the web may be you think of making your own web site. Today I'm going to tell you how to create your own web server that can host your web site. 

What You Need 

• A Computer.
• Linux or window operating system.
• A working Internet connection.

Now The Next Step
As you have all of the three content above you are ready to make your own web server

First install the operating system in your computer with at-least 10 GB of free space (In C drive if you have window and In Root if you have Linux ).

Now you need to install WAMP in windows and LAMP in Linux but The best solution is to install XAMPP (you can find how to install instructions on the XAMPP web site )

Once you install XAMPP check it by putting
http://localhost/ 
In your web browser. If your Installation is goes well It shows something like this

Now you are ready

Put your site under the htdoc folder of your XAMPP installation directory.

Now your web site can be open in your browser but it is local server.
And you need to make it a global server.

Now to do this find your IP address on following address

Now you can open your site by this address

http://your-ip-here/name of your site folder

And now your web server is ready

You can get free domain name for your web site which I'll tell you in my next post

Unable to Format Your Pen Drive?

If there is big virus in pen drive in that case pen drive is not format

1. Right click on my computer

2 Then click on manage

3 Disk Management

Here u see all u drives . right click on pen dirve an format

OR

To prevent a pendrive from infecting trojans or some kind of virus which uses autorun.inf file to execute, just create a blank folder in your pendrive and name it as autorun.inf make it hidden and read only. This trick is sometimes helpful to prevent those kind of viruses or trojans.

How To Get A Free Domain E-mail For Your Website

In this tutorial i am going to show you how to get a free domain e-mail if you have a website.
Step 1
First go to this site
Step 2
Enter the url of the website,but dont write the http://www.

Step 3
Click Get started
In the next page you must fill your personal information.
When your done click Continue.
The next page should look like this:


Step 4
Just fill up the information.
When you finish that click I accept.Continue with the set up
You are almost done!
You have to confirm that you own the site

Step 5
You can choose how to verify that you own the site

Do that and thats it! You have a domain e-mail!

Basics of Photoshop: Designing a Website

For our last lesson, we're going to take a look at how to use Photoshop to layout and mock up a web design from scratch.

zone: top
size: 300x600
keywords: origin=lifehacker, refer=search

If there ever was a Photoshop lesson that required the video component, it's this one. In this lesson we look at using the Shape and Text tools to create a website design from scratch. None of these concepts can really be written out, so there is very little accompanying text with this lesson. You've already learned most of the tools in previous lessons and so this one just shows you how to put them to use to create a site. There are a few new things to discuss, however, and they're addressed below.
If you'd like to follow along in the video or see what the final product looks like in Photoshop, you can download the site design file and assets here. This is a good way to explore and see how things work. The files were created in Photoshop CS5 so you'll need that to view them.

Using Guides

Guides are little blue horizontal and vertical lines in Photoshop that help you align things on the canvas. You can make them by turning on rulers (Command + R on a Mac or Control + R on Windows), clicking on the ruler, and then dragging the line down on to your page. To later adjust any guides you create, use the Move tool (V on your keyboard) at the top of the toolbar.

Creating Shapes

We've looked at creating shapes before, but you'll find here that shapes are especially vital to your layout. Because they're vector images (rather than raster), they can be resized without getting pixelated. This can be really helpful when you're laying things out but you might want to make changes later. You're almost always better off keeping everything in your mockups vector-based, unless it's something that can't be vector-based (like a photo).

Organization

Organizing your website mockups is very, very important. You'll find yourself creating tons and tons of layers, so you want to keep naming those layers and grouping them together as frequently as possible. The more effort you put into organizing your layers, the easier it will be to navigate through your design later. This is especially helpful to developers who may be getting your designs later on. If they have to go through and search for elements, you'll be making their lives much more difficult. Angry developers are unpleasant (I've been one and worked with several). Start off that relationship on a good note by providing a nicely organized document. It's for your own benefit, too, so everybody wins.

Saving for Web

Whether you're the developer or not, someone's going to need to create web-friendly versions of the images used in your design. Nowadays a lot of effects and styles can be created with CSS and JavaScript, so you don't need to worry about too many things. If you have a persistent logo, for example, you'll need to save that for web. While there are a lot of ways you can go about this, the easiest thing to do is just copy the layer that holds the graphic, paste it into a new document, and then initiate the save for web process. You can find "Save for Web & Devices..." in the File menu. When you bring that up, you'll get a big new window that previous what your graphic will look like after it has been compressed using the settings you provide. Generally "JPEG - High" or "PNG 24" are good choices, depending on the graphic. If the graphic is very simple in color and tone, or if you need a transparent background, 24-bit PNG files are the format you want. If you have a more complex graphic, "JPEG - High" is generally the best setting. You can fool around with the compression amount and other settings until you get what you want, but you'll be served well enough by sticking to that preset. Once you click Save you'll be able to name the file. You don't have to worry about naming it safely for the web. One nice thing that Photoshop does for you is add hyphens in place of spaces so you have a web-safe file name when you're done.

Basics of Photoshop: Color Correction, Touch Ups, and Enhancements

Now that you know the tools Photoshop has to offer, we're going to take a look at using them to correct and alter color, retouch blemishes and other unwanted parts of your photos, and enhance portraits to make the subject look especially good.

zone: top
size: 300x600
keywords: origin=lifehacker, refer=search

Welcome to the second lesson in our Basics of Photoshop series. The main lesson is the video above and the text below is for reference. Most of what you're going to learn here is best demonstrated in the video, so watching it is the best way to learn. In this lesson we're going to be covering three things: color correction, photo retouching, and photo enhancing. We're going to look at basic ways to perform these tasks and nothing too complex, but you'll find that these simple methods are very powerful and can handle the majority of what you'll want to do with your photos.

Color Correction

Color correction is a lot easier than you think. You just need to know which colors are complimentary (meaning on the opposite end of the color wheel) and you can use those to cancel out too much of another color. (If you need a refresher on color, check out our color guide.) You also need to be able to spot where colors are the most prominent. This means being able to tell, for example, when red is dominating the light areas of the photo and blue is dominating the dark areas. If you simple applied a blue filter to the entire photo, you'd end up with more neutral highlights—which you want—but a photo that looks too cool because the shadows are overly saturated with blue color. To recap, you need to pay attention to two major things when color correcting: which colors are dominating the photograph and which colors aren't, and also where, tonally, those dominating colors exist.
This is something you can generally do just by eying the photo, but the proper method is to consult the histogram. You can bring this up by going into the Window menu and choosing Histogram. The left side represents the shadows, the right side the highlights, leaving the middle for the midtones. If a particular color is dominating the photo in any area, you'll see it dominating that space on the histogram. This can be a handy guide for spotting necessary corrections.
Now that you've got a basic idea of what we're going to be targeting, let's take a look at some of the best color balancing tools Photoshop has to offer. You can find all the adjustments we'll be discussing in the following places:

• You can find standard adjustments that apply to a single layer by going to the Image menu, choosing Adjustments, then choosing the adjustment you want.
• If you want to create an adjustment layer that can apply to multiple layers and be adjusted after the first application you can create an adjustment layer. You can either do this by going into the Layers menu, choosing Adjustment Layer, and then selecting the adjustment you want, or just selecting the adjustment you want from the Adjustments palette.

Color Balance

Color Balance is not a very flexible tool, but sometimes you just need minor adjustments to color and you can use Color Balance to apply them quickly. If the brightest parts of your photo are just a little bit too red—something that's common with photos taken in low light—you can just select the Highlights radio button and then move the sliders towards cyan and blue a bit until you start to see the colors look a bit more balanced and neutral. You can also use Color Balance to create some interesting color effects by emphasizing different colors in the shadows, midtones, and highlights. Play around with it and get a feel for what it can do. It's not a tool you want to use most of the time, since Curves will generally help you do everything better and with more flexibility, but for quick changes Color Balance can definitely be useful.

Levels

Levels is like Curves (which we'll discuss next) with training wheels. You have three main sliders. On the left, you have the shadows slider. Moving it to the right will increase the intensity of the shadows. On the right, you have the highlights slider. Moving it to the left will increase the intensity of the highlights of your photo. In the middle, you have the midtones slider. Moving it to the left will brighten up your photo and moving it to the right will make it darker. These sliders mainly affect contrast. The sliders under Output Levels affect brightness. Moving the black slider towards the white one will brighten things up. Moving the white slider toward the black one will darken them. By default, Levels applies any of these changes to the entire photo, but you can select a specific color channel and alter it all by itself. There's a little drop-down menu at the top of the Levels panel that lets you select from all channels—I'm going to assume you're in the RGB colorspace and it says RGB—or each individual channel (red, green, and blue). If you want to brighten or darken just the reds, select the red channel and make your adjustments. To see a full demonstration of how Levels works, watch the video.

Curves

Curves is definitely the best color correction tool you've got in Photoshop, but you might find it a little intimidating and shy away from it since Levels seems to work well enough. Trust me—curves is much better, so take the time to get to know it and learn how it works so you're using it to do most of your adjustments. It's powerful, versatile, and very easy to control once you get the hang of it. That said, it works a lot like levels only you set your own points. You can adjust the entire image or just specific channels, just like you can in levels. To make a point on the curve, you just click anywhere on the line and drag in a particular direction. If you pull towards the top left corner, you'll brighten things up. If you pull down towards the bottom right corner, you'll darken things. The middle of the line in curves represents the midtones. The bottom of the line, touching the bottom left corner, represents the shadows. That would leave the top, which represents the highlights.
Here's an example of creating a simple curve: make a point at the midpoint of the line and then two more points that are each about one grid space away from the midpoint. Pull the bottom-most point down into the shadows a bit and the top-most point up into the highlights. This will create basic contrast and is the simplest adjustment you can make in curves. If you're having trouble understanding how this works, you can see an example in your Photoshop presets. At the top of the Curves window, you'll see a preset menu. Choose "Strong Contrast" and you'll get a curve that's similar to the one we just discussed. You should also check out the video at the top of this post to see a full demonstration of Curves.

Auto Tone

Sometimes you can just let Photoshop do a lot of the work for you. While you don't want to rely on Photoshop's Auto Tone option, you can just chose it from the Image menu to let Photoshop make an educated guess about what your photo needs in terms tone and color adjustments. Sometimes you can save yourself a little time by just using Auto Tone, but definitely don't rely on it. Sometimes it just gets it right and it takes about two seconds to try it out and see if it works. If it doesn't work, undo it, and do the corrections yourself. If it does work, you just saved yourself some time.

Photo Retouching and Enhancing

Basic photo retouching and enhancing is very easy and very effective if done with the right level of subtlety. We're going to take a look at some options for correcting problems in your photos—like cuts on a face, dry skin, dust from the lens, etc.—and also how to enhance a portrait to make it look especially nice.

Touch Ups

Most of the touch ups you're going to want to perform can be accomplished with the healing brush or the cloning stamp. If you're trying to just make a person look their best—which is all you really ought to be doing with a portrait—you can do most of what you want to do with the healing brush and clone stamp—two tools wel discussed in a reasonable amount of detail in lesson one. We'll also take a brief look at some of your other options as well.

The Healing Brush Revisited

We've already discussed the healing brush quite a bit so we're not going to go over it in great detail here. Basically it works by selecting a source point (which you do by option-clicking an area of the photo) and painting over the area you want to "heal" with image data from the source point. The healing brush then uses its magic to blend in the painted source material with the stuff surrounding it. Generally this results in a more realistic result than you'd get with the Clone Stamp, but not always. The Clone Stamp works in the exact same fashion as the Healing Brush, but the Clone Stamp doesn't do any healing. All it does is replace the target area with whatever you selected as a source point. While you're technically cloning another part of the photo and this may seem like it's going to look redundant, when you're correcting small areas it can sometimes look better than what the Healing Brush will give you—especially when you're near hard edges and areas of contrast. Both tools are best demonstrated visually, so be sure to watch the video if you're having trouble understanding how they work.

Other Tools

In addition to the Healing Brush and Clone Stamp, there are a few other ways to make corrections. If you're looking to reduce redness in certain parts of the skin, often times you can accomplish this by simply desaturating the red area a little bit. The Sponge Tool can help you easily desaturate a particular area. (If you've forgotten what the Sponge Tool is, refer back to lesson one.) If you're removing blemishes and want some alternatives, the Spot Healing Brush can sometimes be a little easier to use than the regular Healing Brush (you can find it by clicking and holding down the Healing Brush in the tool bar). It doesn't require you to set a source point. One last option is using Content-Aware Fill, which is a new feature in Photoshop CS5. To use it, what you want to remove needs to be in the background layer. Select the part you want to remove with a Marquee or Lasso tool and press delete. You should be presented with a dialogue box asking you what you want to do. If "Use:" isn't set to Content-Aware, change that and then press OK. Once you do, Photoshop will try to figure out what your photo should look like without that element. The more precise your selection is, the more successful Photoshop will be in replacing it. If you select something outside of the area you want to remove, it's possible that this will confuse Photoshop and you'll end up with unsatisfactory results. Generally you'll want to reserve Content-Aware Fill for removing items more prominent than blemishes, as the healing brush tools tend to do a better job at that, but it can do the job as well.

Enhancing a Portrait

Using a couple of minor enhancements, you can make a portrait look significantly better than the original photograph. Everything we're going to discuss here is designed to bring out the best in the image of the person you're working on and not necessarily look better than they actually do. Photos tend to pick up more detail than we'd normally notice and people generally don't have pimples, cuts, or other blemishes on their faces all the time. The idea is to bring out the best in the subject and not perform anything that's untrue to their appearance or is just downright unrealistic.

Color Channeling

One of the best and easiest tricks to enhancing a portrait is making use if your color channels. You can find your color channels in the Channels palette on the right side of your screen. Assuming you're in the RGB color space, you'll see four options: RGB, red, green, and blue. RGB is the color image as you know it. The others are the respective channels. Click each of these and note their differences. You'll find that red has the most light, blue has the most detail, and green is kind of a combination of them both. When you're dealing with people, detail in skin is generally something you want to avoid and that's exactly what the red channel can help you do. Sometimes it's a near-perfect black and white photo all by itself, but if we're working with color it's still very useful. To make a nice adjustment, select the red channel, then select all (Command+A on a Mac, Control+A on a PC) and copy the image. Now switch back to the RGB combine channel, go back to your Layers palette, and paste the red channel. This will create a new layer on top of your background and you'll see only the red channel on your canvas. From the Layers palette, select a blending mode of Overlay for your red channel layer and reduce its opacity to somewhere between 20 and 30 percent. As you're making this adjustment you'll see what a nice effect it can have (or you can just see this effect by watching the video associated with this lesson). This is one of the easiest adjustments to make and it's incredibly useful. It removes unwanted detail in the skin, adds contrast right where you want it, and often improves your photo's color as well.

Burning and Dodging

Burning and dodging can also be extremely useful when applying "virtual makeup" to your subject. This is something you'll want to do for men as well as women, because we're going to be very subtle and make it look as natural as possible. The idea is to place added contrast in the features of the face we want to emphasize: the eyes, nose, and mouth. You can use the burn tool to burn the midtones and shadows of the eyelashes and eyebrows, the curve of the nose, and the inner edges of the lips. You can use the dodge tool to brighten up the midtones of the colored and white parts of the eye and the inside of the lips. For a full demonstration, check out the video associated with this lesson. If you've forgotten how to use the burn and dodge tools, you'll see a proper demonstration in the video as well but you can also refer back to lesson one for additional reference.
While these enhancements are pretty minor, they make a significant difference in the overall look of the photo. While it might seem minor while you're making them, go into your History panel to see what the photo looked like in the beginning after you're done. Once you see the difference, you'll believe how these subtle little tricks can go a very long way.

Create an Animated Fake Progress Bar using PS and ImageReady

Creating a fake progress bar with JavaScript will be secondary method if you try this method once, because you need a fake one not a real.The way we are going to use now must be the easiest way. If you already know how to animate using Imageready then I am sure that you know how to do, if not then take a look at the image, here we shall call the blue boxes as Progress bar on the following steps though its a fake one. Now I am sure that you have figured how does it works. Lets start,

• Run Photoshop.
• Create a new transparent image (150×50px)
• Draw a small, blue box using Rectangular Tool as shown in the above screen shot.

You may change the color of the box according to your will.
Do not bother yourself by drawing new boxes each time, as it is loss of time and they may not be identical to each other, so use Alt+Left Click and drag forward to make identical boxes.

• After creating few such boxes, duplicate the image by right clicking on the title bar of the image as on the screen shot.

• Merge the layers of the duplicate image.(Use Shift+Ctrl+E shortcut)
• Now left the merged one and start working on the another one.

You may ask,”What working?”
The work is expanding your Progress bar, we need several more images for our Progress bar to complete, isn’t it?

• Use Alt+Left Click again and drag forward to add other blue boxes to expand the Progress bar.

Following the steps up to here, I think now you are aware of the concept we are using. That is,”Expand the Progress bar > Duplicate the image > Merge the duplicated one > Expand the Progress bar again“.
Now, your job is to expand the Progress bar till the end. Just use the concept above and remember each time you merge the image, the progress bar should be expanded a while, the expansion of the progress bar can be according to your will.(i.e. how speed you want your progress bar completed)
Let us consider, we ended the Progress bar with 5 different(merged) images as on the screen shot below.(click to enlarge)

 

• Create a new image of same size(150×50px).
• Now select Move Tool from the Tools window.(or press V)
• Drag and drop the merged images just one above another in ascending order.

Didn’t get? Do it as below:

• First drag and drop the First step image.

Here the First step image is the first merged image of Progress bar.

• Again drag and drop the second one just above the first one….and so on.

It will form an individual image with several layers. Here the layers are the images of the Progress bar we created by merging the small blue boxes in previous steps.
Proceed to Animating
Congrats!! You successfully completed the steps in Photoshop and now its time to animate our Progress bar using ImageReady.

• Just click on Edit in ImageReady icon at the bottom of the Tools window.
• Go to Window and click on Animation.
• Click on the small arrow button at the top right side of the Animation window and click on Make Frames From Layers option.

You are done!! Click on the Play button at the bottom of the Animation window to check the result.
Does it works ?
If yes then, Go to File and select Save Optimized option to save the image.
If no then, Go to the top of this post and start reading again. Thank you.

Using JRuby - Java Tutorial

Now you can bring the best of Ruby into the world of Java, with Using JRuby. Come to the source for the JRuby core team's insights and insider tips. You'll learn how to call Java objects seamlessly from Ruby, and deal with Java idioms such as interfaces and overloaded functions. Run Ruby code from Java, and make a Java program scriptable in Ruby. See how to compile Ruby into .class files that are callable from Java, Scala, Clojure, or any other JVM language.

New in Labs: Smart mute and easier ways to unmute - Gmail Tutorial

If you subscribe to a lot of mailing lists and like to keep an empty inbox, muting (or preventing a conversation from re-entering your inbox) is an essential feature. We just made a few changes that should make muting even better.

First up is “Smart Mute,” a new Gmail Labs feature that helps solve the problem of conversations that just won’t die. You know the ones I’m talking about:
those emails with 10+ people cc’d where everyone replies all, but you lost interest five emails ago. The current mute behavior doesn’t do well in these situations since the messages are addressed to you. You end up with muted messages in your inbox, and the only way to prevent these emails from coming back to your inbox has been to create a custom filter for a specific conversation.


If you enable “Smart Mute” from the Labs tab in Gmail Settings, muted conversations will only appear in your inbox if a new message in the conversation is addressed to you and no one else, or a new email in the conversation adds you to the “To” or “Cc” line. Once you enable Smart Mute, mute behavior will change across all versions of Gmail: web, mobile, Android, etc. Try it out and let us know what you think.

Since you’ll likely be muting more than ever, we also added easier ways to unmute muted conversations. Previously, the only way to unmute a conversation was to move it to your inbox -- not super intuitive and useless if the conversation was already in your inbox. Now there are two new ways to unmute a conversation. The first is through an "Unmute" option in the "More actions" menu. You’ll see this when you view or select a muted conversation.

If you’re viewing a muted conversation, you’ll see the second new way to unmute: the "Muted" label next to the subject line now behaves just like all other labels. Clicking on the "X" will remove the Muted label and unmute the conversation.


Hopefully these changes will make it easier to mute and unmute conversations.

Restore your contacts - Gmail Tutorial

There are many times in life when a do-over can come in handy. Perhaps you clicked “Send” on an email that was better left unsaid, or “Delete” on a contact before realizing you still needed it. Just like Gmail lets you unsend a message, you can now have a second chance with your contacts too.


We’ve added a new feature to Google Contacts that allows you to revert your contact list and undo any mistakes made up to 30 days in the past. Let’s say you accidentally deleted a bunch of contacts or wiped the contact data from your Gmail account by mistake while syncing to another device. Visit Gmail’s Contacts section, select “Restore contacts” in the “More actions” menu, and choose the time you would like to revert to.


Your contacts will be restored to exactly the same state they were in at that time — any contacts that didn’t exist then will be deleted and any that have since been added will be deleted. Don’t worry, you can always undo this change by restoring again if you didn’t get the time right.

Email delegation: Granting access to your Gmail account

I use two Gmail accounts: one is my personal account and the other I share with my family (we use it to subscribe to groups like my children's classroom mailing list). Checking these two different accounts used to mean I had to sign out and back in to Gmail all the time. Not anymore. Instead, I can grant my personal account access to my shared family account and view, organize and send mail on behalf of our shared account.


We've offered email delegation for Google Apps accounts for a while — it's super useful for people who want their assistants to have access to read or respond to mail on their behalf. Now this functionality is available for anyone using Gmail. To grant access to another account, click the Settings link in the top right corner of Gmail. On the "Accounts" tab, you'll see a new section where you can "Grant access to your account." For example, below we've given hikingfan@gmail.com access to the hikingfanfamily@gmail.com account.


The account you add will get a verification email with links to accept or deny access. Once the account accepts and you've refreshed your browser or logged in and out again, you'll see a small down arrow beside the email address at the top right corner of Gmail which can be used to toggle between accounts — in this case hikingfan@gmail.com and hikingfanfamily@gmail.com.


Each account will open in a different browser tab or window so you can view both accounts simultaneously, all while signed into your primary account. When you send a message from hikingfanfamily@gmail.com while signed in as hikingfan@gmail.com, it will appear as being sent by hikingfan@gmail.com on behalf of hikingfanfamily@gmail.com.


Signing out of any one of the accounts will sign you out of all the accounts you're currently viewing, and, of course, you can revoke access at any time.

New in Labs: Unread message icon

When you’re visiting sites other than Gmail, it’s easy to find out how many unread messages are in your inbox by glancing at the title of your Gmail tab or window. However, if you have a ton of tabs open, or if you use Chrome’s “Pin Tab” feature that hides everything except the tab’s icon, it can be tricky to figure out without switching tabs.


If you’ve ever found yourself in this situation, you may like the new Unread message icon we just added to Gmail Labs. It embeds the number of unread messages you have right into the Gmail icon itself, like this:


To turn it on, go to the Labs tab in Settings, enable this lab, and click the “Save Changes” button at the very bottom of the page. Note that it’ll only works in Chrome (version 6 and above) and Firefox (version 2 and above).

Desktop notifications for emails and chat messages

Many of us are guilty of constantly switching back to Gmail to check for new messages. And if you’re like me, you’ve probably missed an important chat message because you weren’t looking at your Gmail window when it came in. If you use Google Chrome, these days can be over since we just launched HTML5 desktop notifications which display pop-ups whenever a chat message or new
email arrives.


To turn them on, click on the Settings link in the top right corner of Gmail and scroll down to the “Desktop Notifications” section. If you just want to get notified about chat messages, or if you use Priority Inbox and only want to get notifications for important messages, you can customize your settings from there too.


This functionality is currently only available for people using Google Chrome, but we’re working to make notifications part of the standard Web platform.